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Answer a few quick questions and we'll help you figure out what's wrong — and how to fix it.
In other words, do you hear a humming or running noise from the machine?
In other words, does the machine actually pull a vacuum and suck the air out?
Within seconds of the seal finishing, the bag puffs back up.
You see the bag puffed up after a few days. Open the option that matches your situation:
If the seal holds at first but fails after a few days regardless of what you're sealing, the sealing bar is gradually losing its bite. Two things to try:
Protects the heating element so it seals like new again. Low-risk fix before replacing the machine.
If the leak only happens with certain foods — seasoned chicken, raw pasta, jerky, or anything pointy or wet — the food itself is doing the damage. The fix is in how you prep the bag. We've put the full how-to just below.
Read best prep practices ↓If the motor doesn't run when you press Vacuum, the problem is one of three things: the power supply, the lid latch, or a worn-out pump. Try these in order:
Browse our countertop vacuum sealers — built for everyday food storage.
When the motor runs but air isn't being pulled out of the bag, the machine isn't getting a tight seal — usually because air is sneaking past the gasket. Three checks to confirm and fix it:
Search by model in the Gasket Assistant, or browse all in Vacuum Sealer Accessories.
When the bag holds vacuum during sealing but loses it within seconds, the sealing bar — the heated strip that fuses the bag closed — isn't sealing cleanly. Two things to try:
3-pack. Protects your sealer's heating element so it seals like new again.
A few small habits make the difference between a clean seal that holds and a bag that leaks days later. These are the techniques that cover most of what people get wrong.
The most common vacuum sealer problems and how to fix them — the same diagnoses the wizard above walks through, in case you'd rather scan the answers.
If the motor doesn't run when you press Vacuum, the issue is one of three things: the power supply, the lid latch, or a worn-out pump. Start by checking the cable for damage and confirm the outlet is live. Some sealers only power on when the lid is latched all the way down, so push it firmly shut. If neither fixes it, the pump itself is shot — and since replacement pumps cost almost as much as a new machine and most countertop sealers aren't built to be repaired, a replacement machine is usually the better call.
The most common cause is a worn gasket leaking air around the lid. Press down firmly on the lid while the motor runs — if the bag starts tightening when you push, it's almost certainly a gasket leak. Rule out a defective bag first by trying a different brand. If that doesn't fix it, replace the gasket: use the Vacuum Sealer Database to find the right part number, or browse the Gasket Assistant. If you buy the right gasket and it still doesn't fix the leak, we'll refund it.
When the bag holds vacuum during sealing but loses it within seconds, the sealing bar — the heated strip that fuses the bag closed — isn't sealing cleanly. Look closely at the seal line: gaps or wavy spots mean the sealing bar's tape (the black or brown heat-resistant strip) is worn or torn. Replacement sealing tape works on most countertop sealers, so it's a low-risk first step. If the tape doesn't fix it, we'll refund it. If new tape doesn't help, the sealing bar itself is faulty and the machine needs replacing.
There are two possible causes: the sealing bar is gradually weakening (machine issue), or the food itself is slowly puncturing the bag (food issue). For a machine-side slow leak, inspect the seal line and try replacement sealing tape. For food-specific leaks — seasoned chicken, raw pasta, jerky, anything pointy or wet — the fix is in how you prep the bag: fold the top before filling, use a canning funnel, freeze moist food before sealing, and reinforce hard or pointy items with paper towel or double-bagging. Oxygen absorbers also let you skip pulling such a tight vacuum in the first place.